Arras, France is a small town in the North which, in addition to being situated near any number of battles and graveyards, is also the home of the sacred candle, which significantly predates the wars. In addition to its wonderful squares, it seems to have attracted any number of donations from the various Paris museums, making its museum one of the best I've ever seen in such a small town. It was also home to a lovely little restaurant called la clef des sens, which fed us and kept us warm while it snowed outside.

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